Sewing Tip - Hat Elastic Can Cure Gaposis

Hi everyone,

I want to share one of my favourite fixes with you.

Ever made a top or dress thinking all was good with the fit, only to find the neckline or armholes gape? There is plenty of advice out there on ways to avoid the problem before you cut the pattern, but none tells you how to fix it after you've made the garment! You don't want to waste all your good work but how can you fix the problem?

Hat elastic is the answer!  Hat elastic is a single core elastic - only one strand of rubber (or whatever they use these days).  You thread a piece of hat elastic though the channel of the neckline or armhole seam and gently ease it in until the gaposis is gone.  Tie off the elastic with a reef knot when you have the easing just right.  A reef knot should not come undone - a granny knot would not stay tight.  If you don't know what a reef knot is, have a look here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuNwp_Pi33s

You want it to pull in the excess fabric, but not so much that you cause the neckline to gather up. it is quite surprising how much you can reduce the size without seeing any gathers.

This technique works really well with ready-to-wear too.  Often RTW garments don't have darts where they should and that can make the armhole gape.  It's also great for jumpers,  if you feel the neckline is unflatteringly low or wide.

I'm back!

Hi everyone,

I wish you all a happy new year and hope 2016 has started well for you.

You may have noticed that I haven't posted in quite a while.  The reason is that for the last 8 months I have been acting as project manager for our home renovations, and that has been a very big job!

I have been able to maintain my teaching programme, but everything else (including a social life and any personal sewing!) has been on hold.  The reno's are nearly finished and I seem to be getting my life back.  Any of you who have undertaken major renovations will understand how all-consuming they can be.

I actually had a great time being project manager and assisting on the site as a trades assistant to the main builders.  Have learnt so much and had great fun too!

Here's a couple of photos of me "on the tools", as we say in the building game ;-)

 


We are very happy with the results which include a revamped studio and a private sewing room, just for me.  I know I am spoilt to have a second space but it was a bit tedious having to unpack and repack my own projects all the time in between classes.  Now I can just walk in, do a bit or a lot and leave it all there til the next opportunity arises.

I am really keen now to get into some sewing and the first thing will be adding a couple of items to my winter wardrobe.  I know it's still summer but next month I will be visiting Connie Crawford in Seattle USA for more training, so my winter travel wardrobe must take precedence.

The plan is a to add a couple of items to the wardrobe I took last year - a long line vest and a new winter tee and new trousers.  This is the pattern I will use - Connie's Metro vest and pants - B5473

Here are the existing items I made last year.  They all mix and match so it's a very useful wardrobe.

B5538 blouse

CS1207 T shirt, B5261 Jacket and MX 8002 pants

CS1207 t shirt and B5301 pants

B5999 top

my overcoat B5689

coat showing dragonfly lining and button

So as life returns to normal again, I am looking forward to getting a lot more sewing done - for all seasons!

New Connie Crawford dress pattern

Hi all,

Just wanted to show you one of Connie Crawford's new patterns.  A very pretty dress that will be getting a lot of work in my wardrobe!  This pattern will be coming out in May this year.

I love wearing dresses in the summer - so cool and easy to wear.  I think this one would look nice using some mesh fabric as the overlay.  I have a few pieces of mesh in the stash and can never decide what to do with it!

How would you use this pattern?

Time with Connie Crawford

Steven and I have just returned from a trip to Seattle USA where I was very fortunate to spend 10 days working with fashion designer and pattern maker Connie Crawford.  For those of you who don't know Connie's work, Connie is a highly respected figure in the home sewing arena.  Connie designs patterns for Butterick and has her own pattern line as well.

Connie's patterns are exceptional and the main reason for this is that they actually fit properly!  As most home sewers know, it is difficult to get patterns that actually fit us properly.  Most of the patterns we see today are designed for skinny 18 year olds and no one else.  The pattern companies do offer larger sizes, of course, but the fit is atrocious!  Not so with Connie Crawford's patterns.  Connie has 35 years experience in designing and pattern making in the "ready to wear" fashion industry where she learnt her fitting skills, and now has brought those skills to the home sewing arena.  We are truly blessed to have Connie "on our side" now.

Jason (Connie's son) at the expo booth

I got to work with Connie on her booth and assist in her lectures at the Sewing and Stitchery Expo at Puyallup just south of Seattle.  While most pattern makers and companies will tell you "oh yes, our patterns will fit you", Connie proves it by actually fitting anyone who comes to her booth.  Connie's range has 52 sizes and at the expo, had blouses in every size for ladies to try on.  Sometimes small adjustments are needed, such as letting out the side seams over the hips but rarely much more.  I helped Connie fit over 80 ladies and we did not have one lady who could not be fitted!  It was a joy to see the delighted looks on ladies' faces when they were standing there in a blouse that fit them perfectly.

Another happy customer!

Connie fits everyone in their correct t shirt size as well.  A couple of ladies said the have never had a t shirt pattern that fit them properly.

I also got to assist Connie in the 5 lectures she gave at the expo.  In those classes I learnt more about fitting, sewing like a pro, skirt and trouser drafting and jacket construction.  I learnt heaps!










It was a privilege to be able to learn Connie's methods and I will be bringing her fitting method to Australian sewers in the near future.

Steven and I were also invited to spend some time with Connie and her husband Wayne,  at their lovely home in Hansville, north west of Seattle for a few days.  During that time I saw the process of developing a commercial pattern from the very beginning, and learnt even more from Connie about her patterns and fitting.

Connie in her office

Connie's assistant Jackie marking up patterns

Connie and Wayne were very generous hosts and showed us around the north west part of Washington State, where they live.  It is a beautiful part of the world!

Point No Point Lighthouse

Poulsbo

A while before we left for the USA, I decided to make myself a new travel wardrobe to wear while working with Connie, and I chose all Connie Crawford patterns.  I made 6 tops, 2 pairs of trousers and 2 jackets in a very short time!  The main reason it was so quickly completed is that once you have figured out your size, it's just a matter of "cut, sew and wear"!  No faffing around, trying to figure out
"why is the hem kicking up at the front?"  or "what is wrong with this armhole???"




Do you really have enough sewing time to be able to waste it dealing with fit issues?

So I can say, from personal experience, that Connie's patterns do fit and look great.  So if you want to be able to just "cut, sew and wear" instead of endless fiddling with patterns, then you need to try Connie's patterns.

Here is Connie's website, so please have a look.  Connie also has a Facebook page and there you will see some videos she has made showing her methods.

This trip was such a privilege and I have learnt soooo much from Connie.  I am looking forward to sharing it all with you too.

Enjoy!







PS I did get a bit of time to have a look around at the expo too - it was fabulous!  I also did some serious credit card damage at Marcy Tilton's fabric booth.  Marcy sells the most gorgeous fabric and I am now the proud owner of quite a few metres!

Christmas greetings 2014

Tweaking your sewing machine for better results

A while back I had some things to say about the best sewing machine for learners to buy, but what if you already have a machine and don't want to invest in a better one, just yet?

There are a few ways you can make sure you are getting the best possible performance from your current machine, no matter how old or what model.

Firstly, how long has it been since you had your machine serviced?  Over time, whether you use the machine or not, the tension can go off and the machine will need a service and oiling.  None of what I am about to say will help if your machine needs a service!
If possible, ask your sewing friends about a recommended mechanic as there are some shonky operators out there, or take your machine to a fabric shop for them to arrange the service.
Don't bother going to Spotlight or Lincraft - if something goes wrong they won't care or help you out.  Smaller shops would never damage their own reputation by providing poor service.

Next, always use good quality thread.  To paraphrase that old motor oil advertisement "threads ain't threads, Sol.  So what's the difference?  Have a look at the following photo.

The bad thread at the top is fluffy and uneven.  That fluff and the lumps and kinks catch in the threading path and in the needle and you will get poor stitch quality.  The bottom thread is a good quality thread and will make your stitching look much better.

IMHO there are only 2 good brands of thread: Güterman and Mettler.  So when you see that barrel of threads at the shop selling 5 for $10, don't do it!  Resist and move on.

Also, make sure you always use good quality needles and replace them regularly.  So how often should you change needles?  Some say after every project, some say after 8 hours sewing, some say wait 'til it breaks!
I would probably lean towards the 8 hours sewing rule but I actually just check my stitches and listen to the needle when it's working to figure out whether it needs changing.
If you are getting skipped stitches or the the stitches are uneven, then it may be time for a new needle.
Also, if your needle is making a thudding sound as it pierces the fabric it's probably blunt and needs to be changed.
Certainly, if you are getting pulled threads in your fabric it is time for a new needle!

Another note on needles: your needle needs to be the right size for the job at hand.  A size 70 needle isn't going to be able to stitch a jeans zipper nicely.  Ballpoint needles are essential if you are sewing with knit fabrics.

Lastly change your feet....not your socks, just your feet ;-)
Most modern machines and certainly all budget machines come with clip on feet.  While these are cheap and easy to fit, they are not very stable.  Try it yourself.  Raise the foot and wiggle the foot side to side.  It has too much play.  Your stitch quality will improve if you swap to shanked feet.
A shanked foot includes the section that attaches to the bar, not just the flat bit that is in contact with your fabric.  Shanked feet are more stable and will make your stitching look its best.
This means removing the clip on attachment and screwing the feet on manually but I think it will be worth the effort if you want a better stitch.  There are not hard to find on the internet these days, new or second hand.  Here's a photo of an old style short shank foot.

I hope all that helps you get the best out of your machine, old or new.  Do you have any other tips for getting the best out of your machine?

This says it all!

This is what I really love about sewing.

I certainly enjoy the process of making a garment, and I definitely enjoy wearing my own creations, but at the very heart of things, is creating something that expressed who I am.

It also connects me to my very dear Mum who left us 5 years ago now.  Mum taught me to sew and sewing always connects me to her.  That is very special for me and eases the pain of her loss.

Mum is also with me when I teach.  Whether it reminds me of my learning with her, or hearing her say things like "a good press will fix that problem", she is with me every day I work with my lovely students.

God bless you Mum.